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萍踪传书(连载35)

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发表于 2021-9-19 23:40:12 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
萍踪传书(连载35)
【导读】这里始终是大国政治白热化的焦点,更没有想到二十一世纪的911事件以后,这里是美国打击阿富汗塔利班政权(理由是他们拒绝交出头号嫌犯本&bull,金霏读书阁;拉登)的目标地区之一。
  罕萨因为四周雪山环绕,高原气候,即使在盛夏也是非常凉快,晚上的气温往往下降到接近零度,昼夜温差十分悬殊,但是在吉尔吉特就不同了,这里是亚热带地区,即使孟春之际,孔子读书阁,白天也开始觉得闷热。
  
  经过一路颠簸,到达吉尔吉特车站,精彩读书阁,看上去乏善可陈,没有特别之处。但是值得一提的是,步行不远的中国陵园,说是到此一游的的中国游客都会去祭奠一番。陵园里长眠了八十多名中国援巴工程人员,是为了修建喀喇昆仑公路捐躯,三人小组在墓碑前逗留了好长时间,想到逝者留在陌生国土上,该是多么寂寞时,年轻人们不禁心中惆怅,金霏读书阁
  
  再换乘权当公交车的载人货车进城。看来此地有了些人气,虽然吉尔吉特还是一个不大的市镇,徒步可以走遍每个角落。街上的一个男孩非常热心,在他的帮助下,小组很快找到了一家Hotel,比起罕萨那家旅馆条件好不少,爱看读书阁,有个挺大的花园,孔子读书阁,价格也是不贵。在旅店大堂布置了一些游客的黑白照片,普通标准间,有风扇。洗澡房的也有了热水供应,时间是am和pm各三个小时。花园中有一棵参天的果树,树海读书阁,树下设了餐桌和餐座,铺着很有气派的地毯,旅行者可以坐下用餐聊天。看来这是该国能够接待外国游客为数不多的HOTEIL之一。
  
  和罕萨原生态相比,树海读书阁,吉尔吉特有了商业的繁荣,可以看到数着念珠的毛拉和啜着苏格兰威土忌的将军,中世纪文化和现代摩登资本主义的奇特结合,原始积累的浮躁和悬殊的贫富差距比比皆是。八十年代东西二大阵营,向世界展示截然不同的意识形态,经济体系和社会制度,泾渭分明。其实这二大阵营(不包括中国)的人口也只不过是世界人口的十分之一,也就是意味着,铭华读书阁,第三世界人口却要占到其余的十分之九。
  
  随着后来冷战结束,西方学者以此证明,资本主义和西方价值体系具有普世意义,华闻读书阁,一时喧嚣尘上。殊不知第三世界国家的体制大多属于资本主义范畴,其中很多是近代史的前殖民地,树海读书阁,二战结束后的殖民地解放运动浪潮中,相继宣布独立,在政治经济和军事外交方面虽然摆脱了他国的控制,然而几乎清一色拷贝前宗主国的社会制度。但是多少年来,其中不少国家还是那样无序无望,穷尽潦倒,人们饱受贫困,愚昧,疾病,腐败甚至于战乱。
  
  政治经济学术语的香蕉共和国,就是一个典型的例子,特指那些复制了西方**政治经济体系,却又有不**和动荡不安的现状,甚至于广泛的贪污,和外国势力介入以及其经济命脉被国际财团控制的国家。西方国家经常干涉这些国家内政,当年美国国务卿的霍尔谈论多米尼加总统时说:“他也许是个龟儿子,树海读书阁,但他是我们的龟儿子”。在印度次大陆,同样可以处处看到类似现象和痕迹。看来资本主义,自由的市场经济和西方政客标榜的先进社会形态,远非放之四海皆准,第三世界国家鲜有成功先例。而且同类并非不相残,西方也没有因为后来俄国社会巨变,而因此仁慈地放它一马。
  
  八十年代的巴基斯坦物价非常便宜,这里用餐老板会送上一种奶酪的馕,伴有香料葱蒜,浓油赤酱,甚是开胃。吃好饭,三个人在街上闲逛,每人手持一支巴基斯坦特色的冰棍,虽然前途未卜,豆蔻青春年华充满了无畏,好奇和憧憬。回到了旅店,已过了洗澡热水供应的时段,天气闷热难捱,各自回到房间,关起门洗个凉水澡。一看吓了一跳,自来水却浑浊发黑,好像是从煤矿流淌出来。入乡随俗,更何况在农村住过的人都知道,只有人脏了水,没有水脏了人,当年丝绸路行走的商贾高僧,也就用它,想到这里,步其后尘者也就欣然将就了。
  
  第三天上午大家重新上路。这回坐上了至今最漂亮的长途公交车,车内外挂满了各种充满伊斯兰情调的饰物,光怪陆离五彩缤纷,就连车头的视野玻璃也不例外,不怕挡了视线,真难为司机了。老爷车气喘吁吁大胆的往前走,人们就好像被一头打扮得花里呼哨的大笨象驮着,招摇过市极其吸引眼球。
  
  车厢内划分两个区域,女士坐在前面部分,男士坐在后面部分,即使是夫妻也必须隔离,马路上经常可以看到,作为情侣夫妇,一般不会并行,而是一前一后走路,穆斯林对于男女之间有着严谨的清规戒律,不过外国客人自然另当别论。小甑坐在中间,小林和小肖坐在左右护卫,还是招来人们好奇的目光
  
  这时候小甑意识到,尽管自己是来自另一国度的女人,还是要入乡随俗,最好把自己包装严实,省得招蜂引蝶,令人想入非非。昨天在旅馆房间不慎打开窗帘,发现对面楼顶趴着几个男人窥探。临行时小甑在小铺买了头巾和方布,这回正好派上用场,把头部,脖子和手臂包裹了起来,咋看就像当地的伊斯兰美女。坐在一路欢跑的长途车上,小甑感觉到自己就像《镜花缘》中,托生为秀才之女的百花仙子,出海经商寻父,一路经过数十个国家,见识数不清的奇风异俗。
  
  长途车在拉瓦尔品第稍作停留,从地图上看,拉瓦尔品第和伊斯兰堡距离不远,有点像中国的天津和北京,拉瓦尔品第到伊斯兰堡有密集的班车来往。历史上,拉瓦尔品第一直是兵家必争之地,先前的莫卧尔帝国骑兵,后来的殖民时代英国火枪队,均曾涉足此地,而现在拉瓦尔品第是共和国军事重镇。
  
  看着拉瓦尔品第车站熙熙攘攘的人流,之前习惯了世界屋脊幽静思远的人们,感到既嘈杂又烦躁。车上热心的当地人,给他们写下目的地廉价旅馆的名称与地址,并且告诉他们如何讨价还价,远方客人开始嗅到商品社会的气味。客车继续往前行驶。
  
  大篷车在中转站白沙瓦再次停下,这次人们必须在此地等候六个小时,于是青田小组决定干脆进城一游。
  
  白沙瓦是当年古丝绸之路重要驿站之一。据说最早传入中亚、波斯和新疆的《天方夜谭》,其中阿里巴巴和四十大盗幻境迷离的故事,就发生在这个乱糟糟的城市。一开始人们就感觉到此地独特文化的魅力。白沙瓦与阿富汗相临,是当时和后来很出名的地方,青田小组并没有意识到,这里始终是大国政治白热化的焦点,更没有想到二十一世纪的911事件以后,这里是美国打击阿富汗塔利班政权(理由是他们拒绝交出头号嫌犯本•拉登)的目标地区之一。
  
  白沙瓦边境那边是十几万的苏联特种兵和空降部队,严阵以待如临大敌。七十年代末,苏联为了从陆地进入印度洋和美国争霸,和获得波斯湾丰富的石油资源,武装入侵阿富汗,从而开始了对阿长达9年之久的军事占领。原先阿富汗国内武装林立派别繁多,热衷内战的反政府组织,一夜间成立了统一战线和伊斯兰圣战联盟,接受美国、巴基斯坦、沙特阿拉伯等国的军援,开展抵抗苏军的游击战争。
  
  林,肖和甑三人到达白沙瓦之时,旷日已久的阿富汗战争进入双方战略相持阶段,1985年上台的戈尔巴乔夫,已经开始思考苏联如何逐步从阿富汗脱身。白沙瓦这个边界城市,到处是荷枪实弹的巴国军队和坦克,和地方豪强的私人武装及哨所,还有形迹可疑有特殊使命的欧美人士,就是没有谁会注意这些来自中国的年轻探险者,就象没有人会在意那些,蚂蚁般众多穿着长袍的当地平民。
  
  与强权政治,国际间利益的博弈,以及意识形态纷争甚至于宗教势力冲突相比,无论是远东的客人,还是玉门关外西域的番民,他们显得是那样的卑贱和微不足道,心目之中所渴望的,无非是温饱,安居乐业和对美好生活追求,对于人类生物链上端的阶层而言,简直可以鄙视和不屑于一谈,然而正是这些不计其数的草芥,组合成了人类社会,正是他们平凡的愿望叠加成人类崇高的理想
  
  后来的1989年,苏联终于撤出全部军队,至此阿富汗战争结束。但是当时又有谁会料到,在阿富汗战争与西方结盟的塔利班(阿富汗学生运动武装组织)和抗苏游击队,后来与昔日的盟友反目为仇,成了西方世界心目中十恶不赦的魔鬼,十分具有讽刺意义。
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